A Guide to Our Materials · Since 2002 · PS Made in Tuscany

The Art of Leather: Suede, Nubuck, Calfskin or Nappa?

We explain the differences between our four leathers in plain terms: what each one feels like, how it behaves in daily life, and which one is truly right for you.

In our atelier, we use only natural hides, hand-selected from the finest Tuscan tanneries. The choice of leather is not a detail — it is the very starting point. Each hide has its own distinct personality: a particular way of ageing, of responding to light, of yielding to the foot. This guide helps you understand which one speaks to you, without unnecessary technical jargon.

Suede

Soft · Warm · Character

For those who favour a relaxed, authentic aesthetic. Like wearing your favourite sweater — on your feet.

Nubuck

Resilient · Refined · Versatile

For those who wear their shoes every day and want zero compromise. Elegant without being fragile.

Calfskin

Classic · Durable · Timeless

For those who want a shoe that lasts a decade and improves with every year. The single safest choice in our archive.

Premium Nappa

Supple · Exquisite · Rare

For those who want something to wear when it truly matters. The most luxurious hide in our collection.

First Material

Suede Velvety, warm, immediate.

Soft · Warm · Character

Think of your favourite sweater. Suede is precisely that — applied to a shoe: supremely soft to the touch, warm, with a look that feels lived-in from the very first wear.

It is taken from the inner side of the hide — the fibres are more open and irregular, which means every single panel is subtly different from the last. The surface captures light in a way that is entirely its own: it shifts in tone with the angle, the light, the season. Over time it develops a deeply personal patina — small traces of wear that do not damage, but document the life of the person wearing them.

How to Care for Suede — 4 Simple Steps

1. Brush gently with a soft suede brush after each wear.

2. Apply a water-repellent spray before wearing in rain.

3. If the leather gets wet, allow it to dry slowly — never near a radiator or with a hairdryer.

4. Store in a cotton dust bag, not plastic: natural leather must breathe.

Choose Suede for Your Bespoke Commission →

Second Material

Nubuck Compact, sophisticated, every day.

Full-grain buffed leather · Fine grain · High resilience

If suede is a favourite sweater, nubuck is a fine cashmere knit: it shares the same underlying softness, but with more structure, more resilience, more urban character.

It is taken from the outer side of the hide — the most prized part — and then finely buffed to produce an almost imperceptible surface, with just the faintest suggestion of texture. The difference from suede is immediately felt: it is more compact, more controlled. It absorbs light without reflection — only depth. We recommend it to those who wear their shoes every day across varied contexts — the office, public transport, city walks — and want no concerns: minor surface marks disappear with a single brush stroke. In darker tones, it is simply unrivalled.

How to Care for Nubuck — 4 Simple Steps

1. Brush after each wear — the grain naturally reconstitutes itself.

2. Apply a water-repellent spray every 3–4 weeks.

3. For persistent marks: use a dedicated nubuck eraser in gentle circular motions.

4. Never apply traditional leather cream — it will flatten the surface.

Choose Nubuck for Your Bespoke Commission →

Third Material

Full-Grain Calfskin Iconic, versatile, timeless.

Full-grain calfskin · Smooth finish · The great classic

This is not merely a raw material — it is the leather no true craftsman ever abandons. Robust, luminous, and — a rare quality — capable of improving with every single step. Calfskin does not wear out: it evolves, acquiring a unique patina that tells your story.

Its compact structure and natural lustre make it the perfect canvas for the PS world: an absolute white surface ready to receive embroideries, monograms and personal symbols with impeccable chromatic fidelity. If you are looking for a shoe that will be even more beautiful in five years than it is today, full-grain calfskin is your answer.

How to Care for Full-Grain Calfskin — 4 Simple Steps

1. Wipe with a slightly damp cloth after each wear — that is all that is needed.

2. Condition with a dedicated leather cream every 4–6 weeks.

3. Apply a water-repellent spray as a precaution, particularly on the white version.

4. Store with cedar shoe trees: they hold the shape and absorb residual moisture.

Choose Calfskin for Your Bespoke Commission →

Fourth Material

Premium Nappa The softest. The rarest.

Soft-tanned leather · Silky finish · Exclusive selection

If one word could describe nappa, it would be: silk. This is not a metaphor — it is genuinely the sensation it gives at the touch. Real leather, but with a suppleness you do not expect.

It is the softest hide in the PS archive. Tanned through processes that respect the natural fibres and maximise flexibility, it folds upon itself with no resistance whatsoever. We recommend it for occasion wear: for the moments when you want to wear something singular, something that is noticed without announcing itself. Nappa brings out the full beauty of delicate colourways — blush, lavender, warm ivory — where the softness of the surface amplifies the colour rather than saturating it. It is not the hide for those who walk intensively every day: it is for those who want something they will always remember.

How to Care for Premium Nappa — 4 Simple Steps

1. Clean only with a slightly damp microfibre cloth — no brushes.

2.Condition every 3–4 weeks with a cream formulated for supple leathers.

3. Avoid heavy rain — it is the most moisture-sensitive of our four hides.

4. Always store in the original box with a cotton dust bag.

Choose Nappa for Your Bespoke Commission →

The Comparison